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Lenses For Indoor Event Photography – Must Have Fast Glass

Five lenses every indoor photographer must have in their kit. It doesn’t matter whether you shoot Canon or Nikon, or whether you shoot crop or full frame. These five are a must have for capturing emotion and action in low light. If you’re still using a variable speed, package zoom lens then I implore you to consider purchasing at least one high-speed lens. Both Canon and Nikon offer an identical lineup of fast glass. In this article I want to focus on five different lenses. Three prime lenses and two zoom lenses.

The intent of this article is not to argue the importance of fixed verses zoom lenses, nor is it to examine the pros and cons of each. It is intended to look at how a professional chooses and uses the best lens for the situation. Event photography, especially wedding photography, incorporates a mixture of both technical and creative photographic opportunities. It doesn’t matter if you shoot traditional or photojournalistic you will use techniques and compositions from both schools of thought.

For any work indoors the first thing a photographer will consider is the speed of the lens. Anything under f/2.8 is too slow for professional work. Even with the advent of relatively noise free high ISO camera sensors a professional must know that they got the shoot. You do not want to be concerned with motion blur or camera shake while great photographs pass by.

Primes

Prime lenses offer increased color accuracy and intense depth of field control. Not only that, but they have a single advantage in portrait photography that zooms do not. They offer uniformity in style. In exchange for this they give up the flexibility in composition that a zoom lens offers. You will want to use the same prime lens for all or most of your traditional portrait shots. That way there will be a certain continuity of style, tone and feeling running through them. Simply, by limiting yourself to a single focal length you will give your images a feeling that they belong together.

Both Canon and Nikon offer beautiful prime lenses in both a mid-range and professional category. Don’t let this confuse you if you are on a budget. Both categories offer superb optics and technical features. Canon offers their primes in a standard lineup and in their L-series professional lineup, while Nikon offers their primes in the standard D-series and the professional G-series lineup. The price range for the standard lines run between $300 and $500, and the professional L-series and G-series lenses run between $1200 and $2000.

If You Have to Do This, Then It Never Was a Good Photograph to Begin With

Want to be a bad photographer? Well, it’s simpler than you may think. It all boils down to lack of a signature, or style. To substitute the lack of this most important feature for your photographs, all you have to do is adopt a cliche’ action. What’s a cliche’ action? It’s an action that people adopt regularly who have yet to define their own signature style. A lack of a photographic brand in other words. In replacement of such, they do some of the following listed below.

Selective coloring, is one example of a way some photographers substitute having a unique and distinctive identity. If they did have a distinctive and unique brand, they would never sacrifice such for selective coloring. If a black and white photograph has to have a red rose to make it interesting, then it’s just not an interesting photo to begin with.

Camera tilt action is generally just as bad. Constant use of the horizon tilt is not a signature or brand. If you have to throw the horizon in tilt to make it interesting, then it never was an interesting photograph to begin with either.

Tunnel vision vignette is also just as bad. It’s way better to darken the edges slightly to keep the clients eyes on the subject of your photo. Use vignette to keep the eyes from wandering off the edge, because they often never return to your photo once they leave.

These are just a few basic cliche’ actions that photographers grasp when they lack a signature. Spend time making your signature brand, and you will find yourself sparingly using these cliche’ actions. In other words, define yourself.

Building a Useful Photography Workflow (With Aperture)

The photography community has been abuzz with the recent price drop in Apple’s Aperture to $79. I myself have just recently gotten the program after switching from a windows system to a mac early this year. My workflow was a bit messy, but it has really cleaned up thanks to the switch. Figuring out a workflow that works can be quite more difficult that it seems. I hope that by sharing my newly refined workflow, it may be of aid to those looking to start organizing their pictures or refine their existing workflow.

To judge whether a workflow is effective, there must be a goal to compare it to. Namely, what are the problems that a good workflow must solve? There are three that are important to me:

  • Organization
  • Back up
  • Editing

After shooting, the first step is always to get the images onto your computer. Never transfer your images directly from the camera and instead always use a card reader. Transferring images straight from your camera is much slower and leaves your camera exposed to being banged around or other calamities. By using a card reader, your camera can stay safely in its case where it belongs. Also, don’t delete the images immediately after transferring them. You’ll want to keep them until you have at least two copies on different drives.

There are several programs that will import your photos for you, Aperture has this feature built right in. However, I find it best to just import them the good old fashioned way by using Finder. The next key step is to name the files so you can find them easily later. I use Adobe bridge to rename the files because I like the ease and full customization of the formula, but there are many other options such as Automator. Now I’ll admit, my naming convention is quite unusual. Most photographers begin the file name with the year the image was taken. The way I organize by folders, I don’t find that as useful to have the year be the first thing in the name. It is important though to include it somewhere in your file name so that you can search for it later, if need be. I usually begin with the shoot name followed by the sequence number and finally with the month and year the image was taken.